Vinous, October 2019

 

October 2019

“Bradley Brown draws across a number of sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains and the Gabilan Mountains to the south for a wide range of wines that encompass Rhone, Burgundy and Bordeaux varieties. A preference for picking on the earlier side yields perfumed, savory wines with a good bit of energy that often need a few years in bottle to be at their very best. Readers will find plenty of delicious, compelling wines here.”


2016 ODEON 93 points
2017 ALFARO FAMILY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 92 points
2017 HOWARD FAMILY VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 92 points
2017 HOMESTEAD 92 points
2016 OLD CORRAL PINOT NOIR 92 points
2016 GABILAN MOUNTAINS GSM 91+ points
2016 ALTITUDE 2292 BORDEAUX BLEND 91 points
2017 COASTVIEW VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 91 points
2017 DUNE & MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR 91 points
2017 SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS SYRAH 91 points
2017 LESTER FAMILY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 90 points


2016 ODEON
“The 2016 Odeon, Big Basin’s Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah-based blend, is once again one of the highlights in the range, and also one of the most distinctive offerings in this lineup. All the elements meld together effortlessly in a dark, aromatically expressive, savory wine endowed with terrific textural richness and complexity.”

2017 ALFARO FAMILY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
“Mint, rose petal, sweet red cherry, orange peel, chalk and white pepper give the 2017 Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyard its characteristic striking aromatic top notes. This chiseled, finely sculpted Pinot has terrific energy and plenty of verve. In this range, the Alfaro Pinot stands out for its captivating inner perfume, vibrancy and beguiling aromatics.”

2017 HOWARD FAMILY VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
“A new wine in this range, the 2017 Chardonnay Howard Family Vineyard is exotic, beguiling and full of character. Lemon confit, white flowers, tangerine oil, dried flowers and chamomile appear first, followed by light tropical overtones that add nuance and a lovely touch of oiliness. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s creaminess and textural resonance. One of the highlights in this range, the 2017 is just impeccable from the very first taste.”

2017 HOMESTEAD
“The 2017 Homestead, Big Basin’s blend of Rhône and Bordeaux varieties, is laced with bright, savory notes that give the wine terrific energy. Ripe red fruit, mint, flowers and dried herbs infuse the 2017 with notable complexity and character. This is such an attractive and expressive wine.”

2016 OLD CORRAL PINOT NOIR
The 2016 Pinot Noir Old Corral has shut down a bit since I tasted it last year, which is not bad, it just means readers have to be patient. There is a real tension to the 2016, with plenty of whole clusters overtones that add floral and savory lift. This is such a pretty wine, but it needs time in bottle to be at its best.”

2016 GABILAN MOUNTAINS GSM
“Big Basin’s 2016 GSM Gabilan Mountain marries the character of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with a real sense of mountain structure. I very much admire the weight and density here. Time in the glass brings out pretty scents of rose petal, lavender and spice, but the 2016 needs time in bottle to be at its best. There is so much going on. I can’t wait to taste this in another year.”

2016 ALTITUDE 2292 BORDEAUX BLEND
“The 2016 Altitude 2292 is a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot-based blend from a high-altitude site in the Gabilan Mountains. Bright red fruit, mint and wild flowers give this mid-weight Bordeaux blend terrific freshness and verve that builds through to the persistent, nuanced finish.”

2017 COASTVIEW VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
“The 2017 Chardonnay Coastview Vineyard is another very pretty wine in this range. Green orchard fruit, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2017 a distinctly high-toned profile. Medium in body and beautifully layered, the 2017 has so much to recommend it. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding brightness.”

2017 DUNE & MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR</strong
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Dune and Mountain is a very pretty and precise wine with lifted aromatics, finely sculpted fruit and terrific balance to match its mid-weight, energetic feel. The brisk, salivating style is hugely appealing. A dollop (9%) of stems adds complexity without overpowering the wine.”

2017 SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS SYRAH
“The 2017 Syrah (SCM) is a pretty appellation-level wine. Dark red cherry, leather, mint and blood orange flavors are generous in the glass. Strands of whole cluster savoriness give the 2017 energy and lovely persistence through to the finish. This very complete and attractive Syrah has enough depth and structure to drink well for a number of years.”

2017 LESTER FAMILY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Lester Family Vineyard is decidedly savory and pungent in style, much of that coming from the 100% whole clusters. There is plenty of aromatic intensity, but the palate is a bit clenched at this stage. Dried flowers, mint, licorice, sage and gamy notes are very nicely lifted. Today, the stem component is quite prominent, but if the wine integrates a bit more fully and gains a touch more flesh, it could very well turn out even better than this note suggests.”